My Regrets and Lessons on Beginner Mountaineering Gear
I share the things I love, my regrets, mistakes and lessons from the last few years of gear decisions. I take you through my major technical gear purchases from my beginner mountaineering gear such as crampon, boots, harness, helmet, ice axes and more.
Check out all my gear on my kit.com!
https://kit.co/ChaseMountains/mountaineering-kit-beginners
Scarpa Phantom Tech – https://amzn.to/35Yot0d
Grivel Mont Blanc Axe – https://amzn.to/2Z2eC84
Grivel G14 Crampons – https://amzn.to/2T3r0ky
Camp ‘storm’ Helmet – https://amzn.to/2Z4qdUe
Black Diamond ATC (blue one, more basic) – https://amzn.to/2WXFL9N
Black Diamond ATC Guide (red one, more advanced) – https://amzn.to/2WYuAgU
Black Diamond HMS Carabiner – https://amzn.to/3dIFePD
Wild Country Summit Harness isn’t in production any longer, it has essentially been replaced by the Mission, check it out here: https://amzn.to/2Z0FRzX
Outdoor Research Gloves (don’t bother, check out these instead) – https://amzn.to/3fRcuGy
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Hey, thanks for the video. I was wondering if you would consider doing a similar video again but, this time with more intricate details, like how useful it is if HMS crab has the least amount of revolutions to screw/unscrew, or which type of material to go for when choosing a helmet, maybe even, why a back-up glove instead of a backup mitt, those types of details I mean. Thanks again.
What technical ice axes are you using? Also how much does your pack weigh?
I was indeed that guy who put 4 holes in my beta AR shell pants in one day with crampons. fml
I have the Scarpa’s one step up, the Phantom 6000 double boots (so called as they are designed for 6000 meter peaks, 20,000 ft). They are so comfortable I got rid of my old single boots. Lots of my lower altitude ice climbing is done is fairly serious cold weather so it actually works out pretty well. I am sure that in modest cold the Phantom Techs are fabulous.
For gloves I use very heavy liner type gloves even in very cold weather and tuck a pair of mittens in my jacket that go over the gloves to put on when belaying. I find that works well for me, but I have pretty warm hands.
I have the same wild country harness, retired it because the gear loops would always get in tne way of each other and i continuosly would clip my gear into 2 loops due to their overlapping nature. Caused me no end of shits and gear management headaches.
Went with a nice arcteryx harness for Trad with ice clipper loops and a ultra light petzl for alpine scrambles. Both better than the wild country for gear mgmr. Otherwise it was comfortable, and better off for indoor climbing rather than outdoor use.
After buying numerous "mountaineering" gloves also settled on all leather tight fitting "rigging" work gloves, unless they are leather they wear out in a single trip. But must say the edelrid sturdy gloves are a good substitute. Used to use a pair of Cactus climbing winter gauntlet gloves (all leather) for when things got nasty but require lots of snow wax to seal against water (not bery well) so might try the Rab 2 guide glove as mentioned elsewhere after having them for 20 years lol 15:58
thats the problem isn’t it. if you want to do everything, you kinda need / will want to buy stuff specialized for each individual thing. expensive but probably a good take away
Why is your face so close to the camera?
More props for the Rab Guide 2 gloves. They’re amazing. Another important thing for beginners in my opinion is don’t go without a map and a compass and obviously know how to use them. Smart phones and watches are great but don’t rely on electronics.
The built in gaiter on the scarpa shoe is next level
My dream want to climb Everest
14:30 for pure mountaineering/via feratta I can definitely recommend the Petzl Altitude as one of the lightest and still decently comfortable harnesses
i had to put my camera mount higher up, directly over top of spine… or i get a stiff neck
If you need the extra insulation from winter gloves then maybe use seam grip to make them more grippy?
Brilliant video mate
The last 30s of the video are the most valuable 😁
Welcome in Catalunya! 🙂
Could you explain why the ice axe comes in three different sizes and what size would suit me at 5’10" please?
The problem with the “integrated” gaiter on the boots is once they get shredded by rocks, ice, crampon points etc. (and they will!) you boots are compromised. I think you’re better off with a “naked” boot and a regular gaiter that protects you boots and pant legs and is easily replaced once they’re shredded.
Best gloves hands down are the SKD Tactical PIG Cold Weather Gloves.
when you need good gloves then i can recommend the ES winter evertouch gloves.
I use them for pretty much everything in cold conditions now.
And they are also rather cheap.
The phantom tech is definitely not a beginner’s boot. It’s stiff and warm and meant for more technical climbing than easy mountaineering. Maybe if your goal is Mont Blanc, it is appropriate. But for 4000ers in the Alps in Summer, definitely the wrong boot.
The gaiter isnt going to be stopping you from getting holes in your waterproof pants which should be over the top of the boots not tucked in.
Cool vibes dude, well explained and very interesting! Cheers🇧🇪
Check out Hestra cloves, a swedish brand. They use the layering system and the gloves are pretty darn good.
Pleasant presentation & atmosphere, quality content – subbed. Thanks dude!
Good Stuff, thanks.
This is gold, thanks mate
Thanks for the tip about isolating the iceaxe(-s). I think I should have doen that years ago 😉 I’ll do it right away. What is best lasting and holding on in cold weather?
Kind regards.
You left out comments on your helmet. Thanks for the vid though.
We use two boot solution too in the uk.
Hi great video when I was diving in drysuit , showa 660 gloves from anywhere with a wool glove underneath and I used to make them dry with si tech wrist connect . Under a fiver for a pair .
Awesome Video! Thank you for taking all the time to share this.
Are there crampons that you can use for both mountaineering boots and regular hiking boots?
I’ve been invited to Nepal to stay with a friend. I’m a keen climber but alpine stuff is an entirely different fish.
Thorough and informative thanks
I have to say that I really dislike many things you are saying. E.g.Having proper safety equipment, for example warm gloves, is very important. Working gloves won’t do the job. Also for any kind of mountaineering I would always recommend the more versatile tube. Talking about boots, the ones you are showing are technical boots and therefore too advanced and stiff for beginners. Showing these technical boots next to a straight ice axee seems a bit weird. And I wouldnt want any holes in a pair of boots that cost me 500€, so I would recommend using extra gaiters for most types of mountaineering boots, especially if they arent super high and you dont have hard shell pants. I also want to point out, that crampons with vertical and exchangeable teeth are suitable for nearly every terrain and I personally think, that they horizontal teeth are only preferable in very easy terrain. Although looking at weight es generally a good idea, trading safety and durability for light weight equipment can be a bad idea, especially for beginners. Saving weight is a thing that often needs a bit experience, so I would tell beginners to not buy extremely light products. And it safes for example weight, to not "tune" your ice axe with a cord and tons of tape. Furthermore there are many products that are exactly able to do everything, so you just need to buy it once and can do everything with it. Of course you should know where you want to go in your future climbing career and buy stuff for it. But having in mind that you will evolve and maybe try other disciplines of mountaineering aswell, buying versatile equipment is very useful. I spend a lot of time thinking about what I want, need and will need, before I buy something and that leads to buying stuff only once and not regret it, even though it is versatile. All in all I struggled with this video a lot, because I think it can lead beginners to a few false assumptions. And because you showed so much advanced stuff in your video, I think you missed the point in some parts of it ^^
Thank you for the video. Just getting into mountaineering and these informations are really helpful.
What about water filters? In the summer its easy to find water and purify it, but how do you do it in winter? When you melt the snow its going to be full or dirt and nasty stuff. How do you filter that out?
your cameras out of focus
Thank you!
What thoughts do you have on the La Sportiva Nepal Evo boots?
Hello Chase great vids thanks a lot, could you detail why did you pick an HSM rather than a D or an Oval carabiner?
Visca Catalunya !!!!
Hi Chase. Great content, lots of really useful stuff on your channel. I have done lots of thruhiking and multi day hikes / treks and a bit of winter stuff work with ice axe crampons and skis in Scotland and on one occasion, the alps. The main thing I want to work on is all rope work and setting protection etc. I’m in the UK during lockdown and reading the mountaineering textbook you recommend (amongst others) in prep for better days. I’m looking to buy some rope to practice knots. What length / thickness would you recommend as a general rope for mountaineering? Cheers!
Thanks for this video. I found it useful for beginner mountaineering.
Neat trick with the leather glove.
If you turn them inside the seams out be hurting the tips of your fingers, also if it’s sharp rock Tthe inside kf the glove holds up to cutting way better
You might be freezing your feet with those gel inserts. A foam insert will provide insulation while gel will transmit heat readily
this was very helpful. I will try the glove-test and also try to wrap some prusik around my ice axe.
Try tig welding gloves, they have a pretty nice liner
Great video. Football gloves are good too.